Japan has long been a haven for vintage shopping, and recent post-pandemic travel trends, combined with the buzz from influencers, have heightened awareness even among those previously unfamiliar with this aspect of the country's fashion scene.
In Asia alone, the estimated revenue of the second-hand luxury goods market last year was $3.97 billion and is expected to rise to $4.38 billion this year. By 2028, the numbers are projected to reach $5.84 billion. Japan stands out as a prime destination for luxury second-hand and vintage shopping due to its extensive inventory, the weak yen, and a unique shopping experience.
“Japan has a strong vintage and selling culture, unlike in other countries where luxury pieces are passed down as heirlooms,” shared Amore Vintage Brand Manager Shinoko Itakura during an interview at one of their branches in Omotesandō, which specializes in sourcing and selling Chanel pieces. “During the bubble era in the 80s, a lot of women bought luxury designer items, especially Chanel. It was a trend at the time, particularly since the economy was doing really well. Those pieces are now with us.”
"Japan has a lot of high-quality items that are in great condition," explains Sakimi Hamada, CEO of luxury second-hand store Vintage Qoo. "Compared to many countries, Japan has a lot of shops that engage in kaitori–they buy pre-owned items for resale.”
Tokyo’s vintage luxury market is deeply rooted in Japan’s broader cultural practices. The Japanese approach to cherishing and maintaining one’s possessions – a concept known as mono wo taisetsu ni (cherish your things) – ensures that vintage luxury pieces are often in excellent condition. This cultural respect for belongings translates into a robust market for vintage luxury, where the condition of items remains paramount. Stores like Vintage QOO and Amore have not only had great business due to this cultural penchant but have also become international destinations for those in search of rare pieces in the best conditions.
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For The Inventory And The Experience
Both Amore and Vintage Qoo boast thousands of designer pieces in their inventories. In Japan, such shops need a special license to handle pre-owned designer items. This license also allows them to bid in private auctions where some of the rarest pieces can be found. These auctions are populated by luxury goods sourced all over the country through different kaitori establishments and estate sales.
“We once had a pink, jumbo Chanel bag decked with rhinestones. It was a runway piece and I have not seen anything like it since,” a staff member at Amore Vintage shared.
Both stores have garnered a sizable following on social media and have opened online stores even before the pandemic, proving that the interest has always been there. “About 90% of our clients are foreigners,” Itakura admitted, noting the change in the shopping behavior of the locals. “The younger Japanese people who do visit us opt for second-hand and vintage designer pieces not just because of the price point but also since they find it more ethical,” added Hamada.
Still, it’s better to shop in person as doing it from afar does have its limits. Some serious collectors won’t be able to get exotic leather as shipping it is not allowed. You’ll have to buy it yourself and carry it with you.
What also sets certain vintage and second-hand stores apart is the distinctive shopping experience. Both Amore Vintage and Vintage Qoo stand out for their meticulous attention to detail. They also have Hermès rooms, huge sections for Louis Vuitton and Dior, and even a whole floor or branch purely dedicated to Chanel.
“We want the customer to feel like they have gone to the past when they come to the store, both in the first and second floor. As for the Chanel floor in the basem*nt, we wanted it to feel like a vintage amusem*nt park,” Hamada said.
At Amore Vintage’s main branch, a Louis Vuitton trunk from the 1870s sits on display while rows of highly coveted Birkins and Kellys are arranged by color and material.
Keeping It Real
With the rise of the second-hand market came the rise of ultra-fakes and the need for more authenticators. Enter third-party authentication firms that now employ technology. American company Entrupy, whose biggest market in Asia is Japan, uses Artificial Intelligence (AI) in authenticating their items. “Counterfeit luxury goods are a huge, multi-trillion-dollar problem worldwide,” shared Aila Amoyo Reyes, Asia-Pacific Regional Sales Manager for Entrupy. “Of course, Japan has a stellar reputation when it comes to its second-hand and vintage inventory and companies do want to maintain that. That’s where we come in.”
Entrupy began in New York University in 2012, where its founder, Vidyuth Srinivasan, aimed to prove in his thesis that items, like humans, have their own identity—a fingerprint of sorts. The company spent the initial years on research and development, gathering extensive data on both authentic and counterfeit items.
“We provide our customers with a kit that includes our app and a powerful camera that can take extremely zoomed-in images, allowing us to study the material closely. All they have to do is pick out the brand and model of the bag they’re authenticating.” Once the photos are sent via the app, users can expect a reply in as short as a few seconds. “Our AI uses algorithms and machine learning techniques. Essentially, we’re teaching the machine to identify if an item is authentic or ‘unidentified’.”
Counterfeiters are also getting smarter, learning about the things human authenticators look for and improving their fake items. They’re now called ultra-fakes for a reason. “We issue certificates for each bag with a QR code. Scanning them leads to the website where the details of their authentication can be found.”
Still a B2B service, Reyes adds that these certifications add an extra layer of security and trust, especially for those shopping from overseas. “The company’s mission is to really build trust and confidence in the whole supply chain so we work with companies of varying sizes as well as government institutions, like customs agencies.”
Looking Ahead
Following Vintage Qoo’s opening of its Osaka branch early this year, Hamada is poised for significant expansion, driven by growing global interest in Japan’s unique approach to vintage luxury.
Similarly, Amore Vintage is expanding its footprint both locally and internationally. Itakura disclosed plans for a new branch in Tokyo, opening this September. “The store will be dedicated to archival collections, offering pieces that are not just vintage but also significant in the history of fashion,” Itakura said.
As Vintage Qoo and Amore Vintage embark on these ambitious ventures, they continue to represent the values that have made them notable in Japan’s vintage luxury market: a deep respect for quality, a commitment to authenticity, and dedication to offering exceptional shopping experiences.
Embracing the Future Japan’s vintage luxury market, with its blend of cultural reverence for items and innovative approaches to retail, remains a part of the global fashion landscape. As they bring their expertise closer to new markets, they carry forward the legacy of Japan's unique second-hand culture, offering a timeless journey through fashion history to enthusiasts around the world.
